Tavidal

I was the night of the 2, I had just finished cleaning all the mud from my bike, tuning it, oiling it and even patching a tire.

It was almost midnight, and I had not decided what I was going to do on Sunday (or if I was going to do anything at all).

I had pre thought a couple of choices, Taboga, Cerro Azul, Metropolitan park, Playa Blanca, San Carlos, but nothing seemed to be particularly exciting. Then as I was just sitting on my desk, I realized it has been a month since I went on a medium adventure (Isla Iguana).

Immediately I knew what I wanted to do. I had "heard" of a place called Tavidal that had a beautiful waterfall. Took a look at my cartographical map, and found a Tavidal Arriba in Penonome.

It was almost midnight, but the decision was made. Tomorrow I am going to the Tavidal Waterfall.

I spent another half an hour preparing a cache (geocaching.com to learn more). The alarm was set for clock for 8:00am.

A friend was on the chat, and he thought I was nuts, I was going to have to drive at least eight hours on a single day, plus whatever time I was going to be there. It seemed like too much.

I woke up at 5:24am, two hours before the scheduled time. I knew I had not rested enough, yet the thirst for adventure made me jump out of the bed, took a quick shower, packed my camelback with some gatorade, a couple bars of granola, insect repellent and a tinny medikit.
Stuffed $40.00 in my wallet and took off.

It was really a pleasure driving in the city that early. First stop was at the gast station. I knew I was going to drive at least 400km round trip, so I did a full vehicle inspection, added some oil to the engine and filled up the tank.

Took off.


Second stop was at Coronado. It was time for a second breakfast (first one was a pity granola bar). I bought six chicken empanadas and tree ice tea packs, and even tough I pushed the empanadas down my troat as quick as possible, I still managed to loose twenty minutes there.


At 7:49am I was back on the road. By 8:30am I was feeling tired. Reality was catching up, I did not slept enough las night. But then I saw the Penonomé waypoint flag on my gps (I have it attached to my windshield), and knowing that I was close woke me up.

Five minutes later, I stopt at a gas station in Penonome. Went in, and asked for the lube.
Then I went back into the tinny grocery store, bought a watter bottle, and asked the cashier "where is the Tavidal Waterfall" (That is part of the adventure, driving all the way to Penonome, without knowing the exact directions).

She did not knew, neither her working pal. They have never heard of it. I had a strange cold feeling, but suddenly the guy behind me on the line says "I own the waterfall".

I was like, what? How can you own that? Is it even possible to own a waterfall?
Well, he explained he owns all the land that surrounds the waterfall, and even the Hotel/Spa called "La Posada". He says that the waterfall and the lands around belong to the Panama Network of Private Natural Parks. Entrance fee is $1.00 and asked me about "how many" we are on my group.

He finds hard to believe that I have come alone from the city, just to see the waterfall and leave. I explain him that I like visiting places, learning about them, so I can later come with a group of people and show them.

Anyhow, Alfonso has something to do, but we agree to meet at La Posada.
We part on different directions (I goofed and started driving on the wrong road), but quickly fond the road that goes to "Chiriquita Grande".

So I made it to "La Posada", and I was truly surprised. I thought it was going to be a crappy hostel. It happen to be quite a nice place. It has 17 rooms (and I am not getting any fees for this marketing...yet), all of them with beautiful views of the forest. It had a nice and confi social room with tv and pool and ping pong table.



Soledad, the lady that works there, even gave me a tour to the rooms, so I was able to (paparazi style) take pictures of the inside of them.





Then she walked me into the spa and introduced me to Isac.
He tells me about there used to be many frogs, monkey, lazy bears, iguanas, but each year with the constant human invasion, thouse animals run deeper into the forest.

On the trails, if one is lucky, might see some animals. Birds are visible all day long, specially in the morning.

On the matter of snakes, all of the area snakes with the exception of the "ratonera" and the "iguanera". However as long as the trails are clean and open, there is no problem.

That was ok, but what Isac real expertise is as a professional therapist. He and his wife work providing a wide range of therapist experiences, ranging from soft massages with natural secnences aroma and music, then there is chiropractic for back problems. And even more extreme, there is Tailandes therapy, that one is hard (on the floor) using his knees hard on you. (I did not asked for a demonstration).

There was also a massage with medical mud, sauna, cold therapy and yoga.

For chiropractic and tailandes a special consultation has to be arranged (that is no joke my fellow readers).

Alfonso has arrived, and we meet again, we talk from a diverse kind of topics, ranging from personal sports like water polo to Natural Conservation. He is the founder of the Panamanian Natural Private Reserves.

We sit down, for some coffee and to talk business. I'll spare you from the details.

Anyways, I got interested into knowing more about the project named "Fe y Alegria", whose objective is to promote the production of organic products. They train the locals and help them get the international Organic Certification. Currently there are five locals with an international certification of organic products, and twelve more that are already recognized, and working on the paperwork to get their official certification.

Moving on, Alfonso guided me on the way to the Tavidad Waterfall. The road now was quite rocky. I would not dare to drive it without a 4x4. The Spa has some cabins near the waterfall as well, and they offer mule rides ($20.00 a person) to get there.

My measurements indicate that we drove for 3.4km (and lost up to 142 meters in the first 1.5km). After that short (but fun) drive, we got out of our vehicles, and started a beautiful 1km hike.

We made it to the cabins. There are tree of them. There is one in particular I liked so much. It has a clear view of the waterfall. That one has four single beds and two bunk-bed ones for a total of 8 sleeping spaces (I asked for the toilet as a pity excuse to get into the cabin).

Everywhere I look, I noticed clean cut grass, not a single snack paper wrap on sight, even on the trails. It was really neat. So neat that I actually was fearing for the cache that I had with me, and wanted to plant near the waterfall. So proceeded to explain Alfonso about it. I illustrated him about what is geocaching, I told him that I had one with me that I intended to plant here, and showed him the container, with all the goodies inside.

Alfosno was fascinated with the idea, and more than agreed for me to place a cache here.
We also meet with Valerio who is the guy in charge of cleaning, repairing and giving general maintenance to the trails. We found him at the base of the waterfall *cleaning it*, he was removing some dirt, branches and leaves.

The waterfall itself was splendid. The water falls from such high altitude, that it disintegrates into mist giving the waterfall a ghosty look, and providing a fresh environment all around. On top of that, since this waterfall is sort of secluded in the forest, there where beautiful sun ray designs as the sun light passed tru the forest and reflected on the ambience mist.

I planted the cache GCZMZ0, and so my mission here was complete.

Now we take off, hike back to the vehicles, and drive to an area called Vaquilla (that is 7km more into mud and rocks). The locals know Alfonso (they call him *abuelo* [grandpa] ), and so everyone he drives into will greet him. On the other hand, they look kind of weird at me, I guess not too many other vehicles drive tru this areas.
By noon we make it to *Fe y Alegria* (gezz this adventure is really on a roll), we do a quick stop, to deploy some supplies, mostly organic fertilizer.

Alfonso invited me to his house *Finca el Remiendo*, I accept. More fun driving.

Here he only brings his family, some close friends and sometimes scientific's that are in the working on. I feel privileged.

My brain is like a sponge absorbing knowledge, and Alfonso has quite a repertory of histories to please me with. And all this over a just made lunch is even better.

After lunch we take a quick nap on the hammocks, and after that we take a short hike to the river. Alfonso has a long stick that he uses to keep the goose away.

Once on the river, I get a guided tour, with explanations about the plants on the trail.
I have to say that most of the information I had forgotten, however I keep the experience, I remember how I felt being taken care.

We made it to Alfonso's favorite spot. There we sat and rest. And after a few minutes I comment that I have the *urge* to jump into the water. He says that he was waiting for me to say that. So I jump in. (ahhh the wonders of lycra underwear, they serve well as a swimsuit and they get dry quickly). Alfonso, on the other hand lives there, and was therefore prepared (thank God!).

Anyways, the river was great. On this particular area is where a wide flow converges into a small one, so the currents are quite strong (if you manage to stay there). I enjoyed a lot holding tight into the rocks with my hands, and let the water pull me and stretch me (altought I keep bending my knees, just in case the lycra decided to slip). It was a great massage.
I got out of the water hypothermic. I was shaking. Quickly got dress and we went now to see other much older plantations. These ones he got from Costa Rica. And finally back home.

Where one more time, Alfonso cooked for us (did I mention that I am in great gratitude?).
And he is by the way, a great chef. And after some cheese and a bottle of wine we eat.

When I finally touched the bed, I fell asleep instantly. It has been a great day.
I did woke up at 4am, and started thinking about the tours, how would I do it, what would be included, the logistics, and .... well that was the end of my sleeping.

So I got off, showered, dressed (with the same clothes again) had two granola snacks (4 bars), and some gatorade. Outside was windy, I was using a towel to cover myself. Yes I get chilly easy.

Sunrise was good, it had an unusual combination of pink and purple colors. But because of the forest, and the clouds I never really got to see where exactly was the sun.

Guess what?, Alfonso did the breakfast too. And it was good.

Shortly after that, I departed, not without shaking his hand and letting him know It had been a great experience.

On my way home, I could not stop feeling extremely lucky.
When I departed home yesterday, I was expecting getting lost, maybe not finding the waterfall, driving late, being hungry even sleeping somewhere in the car (it would not be the first time).

Yet, I was presented with an exciting wonderful pleasant and friendly experience.

Life is good.